The Yardley Inn

by Marcia Nye
Restaurant Tours Writer

Ironically, on the evening of my recent visit to The Yardley Inn, rain was streaming across the road in sheets and I couldn’t help remembering when the Delaware River rose above its banks three times in two years, devastating Yardley, PA., each time. In fact, the inn was forced to close several times, but never for long, thanks to the speedy renovations undertaken by its owners, Bob and Robin Freed. Today, as it has since 1832, The Yardley Inn stands as a beacon to travelers and villagers alike.

My friend and I chose a table on the enclosed porch which afforded a glistening view of River Road, the inn’s extensive gardens and the swiftly rushing Delaware River. As I settled into a supple leather chair, I took in the interior ambiance: Thick-slatted wooden Venetian blinds on the windows, chunky granite tabletops and low pendant lighting all created an intimate and informal setting.

The restaurant was full on that ra iny evening, testament to the high caliber of the food, certainly, but also to the popularity of the Dine Early, Pay Less campaign, which offers special three-course dinners (selections are from the regular menu) for only $19. And despite the lack of empty tables, excellent sound-absorption devices sustained a comfortable, conversation-inducing experience.

Nancy, our server, took our drink orders, then left us alone with a basket of artisanal baked goods, an inspired arrangement of irresistible warm, nutty slices of crusty bread and exceptional amber-hued sesame crackers, crisp flat-bread that was reminiscent of a pretzel but so very much more. After perusing the menu, we decided that it would be impossible to settle for one or two appetizers, so we tried the Tiers of Taste, a considerate feature that allows for a sampling of three reduced-portion selections.

Nancy, who seemed as genuinely interested in our meal as we were, gav e us a run-down of our choices. Among other things, we learned that the hummus is made fresh every day, that Eben’s Hot Wings (named for executive chef Eben Copple) are very popular with the bar crowd and that the beef spring rolls are a house favorite.

Armed with this information, we opted for wings, spring rolls and deviled eggs (a rarity, we thought, on restaurant menus, so we had to try them). Soon, a three-tiered serving tray was placed between us. The hot wings were spicy indeed, yet tempered by a gooey, finger-licking maple syrup glaze. The spring rolls were flaky and delicate, with a rich, savory-sweet filling; the deviled eggs were laced with whole mustard seeds, resulting in a delightfully subtle crunch.
Our appetites whetted, my friend and I shared a bowl of the Yardley crab bisque, which turned out to be a highlight of the meal. Piping hot, the soup was velvety and thick, swirling with bits of crab and a touch of ca yenne and garnished with a dollop of soothing crème fraîche and a sprinkling of chopped chives.

The owners and chef are passionate about using the finest and freshest ingredients, so the salad comprising a trio of beet varieties atop mixed baby lettuces, pistachios and goat cheese was an obvious choice for that late-autumn evening. In a nod to his contemporary take on food, Chef Copple replaced the customary acid in the vinagrette dressing with verjus, the tart juice of unripe wine grapes, whose crisp fruitiness enhanced the sweetness of the beets and complemented the creamy saltiness of the cheese.

The dinner menu is far-reaching, ranging from the Yardley Burger topped with Boursin cheese and roasted tomatoes to the San Francisco Cioppino, mixed seafood in a saffron-infused broth over linguine. My companion and I were tempted by the Filet Mignon, in part because it arrives with a wedge of au gratin potatoes t hat is simply divine. That night, though, I opted for the jumbo lump crab cake, golden-brown all over and served alongside a drift of smashed potatoes and a colorful ratatouille.

My friend chose the duck breast. Its crispy skin was bronzed with a red grape glaze, accompanied by a smooth potato purée and simply sautéed spinach. She also ordered the wild mushroom risotto, which struck me as a bit decadent, but I cetainly didn’t argue. The experience of eating this sublime creamy goodness flecked with precious black truffle shavings defies description—it is meaty without meat, what the Japanese call unami, that earthiness of flavor found only in fungi.

In spite of our ambitious dinner, we couldn’t miss out on dessert. You can’t go wrong with the extensive, seasonally inspired selection of Philadelphia’s classic Bassett’s ice cream. A chocolate polenta cake is dense and rich, with a contrastingly chewy crust and the homemade bread pudding is served steamy-hot with a generous spoonful of crème anglaise.

Before we left for the evening, my friend and I stopped into the bar for a quick nightcap. Newly remodeled, the room’s décor lends itself to relaxation. Greeting first-timers with as much warmth as regular patrons, general manager Michelle Mohollen told us, “We want our guests to feel that this is another home, where everyone knows your name. Whether people are here for lunch, dinner or a corporate meeting, we really pride ourselves on our hospitality skills and the dining experience we offer.”

The Yardley Inn, located at East Afton & Delaware Aves., Yardley, PA., serves lunch and dinner daily and Sunday brunch.